| Joe Laufer’s Travel Journal
NORTHERN NATIONAL PARKS – August 10-17, 2007
I've selected a few pictures to enhance the text. I took 349 pictures during the tour. I have posted them on Snapfish. Anyone wishing the complete set should write me at Info@LauferTravel.com and I will send them electronically.
For those who are familiar with my trips, as soon as I arrive in a location, I search for a business center or Internet Café in the hotel or in the neighborhood and start emailing a group of people with the day’s happenings. When I return home, I compile and edit all of the emails in to a journal like this one. I didn’t have computer access nor the time in Salt Lake City to send any e-mails, so began sending them when we reached Idaho Falls on Sunday, August 12, the third day of our week in Utah, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana. Our hotel has a Business Center with complimentary high speed internet, which made it easy for me to send regular emails for the remainder of the tour.
There are 37 of us from all over the country. 14 are in my group from New Jersey. Mine is the largest single "group" -- the others are individual Collette Vacations travelers traveling together from the same area. Some are from Los Angeles, others from Michigan, Massachusetts, Kentucky and maybe one or two other states. They are all very friendly and almost immediately we became one big happy family. My wife, Penny, was unable to accompany me on this trip because of certain responsibilities at her work. This was unfortunate, because she had been looking forward to a domestic tour, after I had dragged her all over the world on international tours.
This was what is called a “hub and spoke” tour, where you pretty much stay in one hotel (the “hub” – ours being first Salt Lake City; then Idaho Falls, Idaho) and then take day trips to designated locations (the “spokes”).
Day 1 - Friday, August 10
We had to rise around 3 a.m., leaving Vincentown by coach for Philadelphia International at 4:15 a.m. At that hour, we were at the airport in less than 45 min. Our Delta flight left on time at 7:15 a.m., arriving in Salt Lake City on time at 10:10 a.m. (SLC time, but 12:10 New Jersey time). We saw some beautiful American mid-west and western scenery from the sky on a flawless flight. We were met at the airport by our tour manager, Randy Cowger, a 10 year veteran of Collette Vacations with a wonderful personality and lots of history at his fingertips.
That's Randy Cowger, our Collette Tour Manager on the left
Since we couldn't get into our rooms till 3:00, we took a bus tour of Salt Lake City, just coming off of a heat wave. They told us how fortunate we were with the lower temps - plus, there was a great breeze. We arrived at our Sheraton Center City Hotel at around noon, and had the afternoon free. Our hotel was centrally located and near the free light rail line that looped through center city. I personally took a guided tour of Temple Square, the main section of town dominated by the Mormon Temple and other Church of the Latter Day Saints facilities. It was very enlightening. I even got to hear a live organ concert at the Tabernacle. After a great welcome dinner in our hotel, I went back up to Temple Square to see the area by night -- with the temple and parks all lit up. Very beautiful!
Day 2 - Saturday, August 11.
After a great breakfast, we left at 8:00 a.m. by bus for a guided tour of the entire region. We had an outstanding step-on tour guide who gave us three hours of history without referring to a single note. I envied her ability to remember dates, styles of houses and names of historic characters and events. Our first stop was the Kennecott Copper Mine -- a fantastic crater where more copper and lead is mined than anywhere in the world -- and one of the few sites in America visible to the Astronauts from outer space. It was an enlightening experience and we learned a lot about the strip mining of these various minerals. Next stop was the Great Salt Lake, where we learned a lot about the geology of this part of America and got to understand why this massive inland lake was salty. Back to Salt Lake City for a comprehensive city tour, which included a visit to the Utah State Capital and the Salt Lake City Olympic Village (thanks to the managerial ability of Mitt Romney -- oops - political plug!). We ended up at "This is the Place" -- the location where the Mormons, under Brigham Young, finally settled after their cross-America trek in the mid-1800s. Our afternoon was free, which allowed me to visit some special sites, like Brigham Young's "Beehive House" , and the Gateway Center -- one of America's greatest outdoor Malls. I re-visited the State Capital and took photos of the Buffalo which dotted SLC during the Olympics as an outdoor art project like our "Eagles Have Landed" project in Burlington County. Some of our group closed the evening chatting and drinking in the hotel bar -- one of our long-standing tour customs.
 
At the Kennecott Coper Mine and Great Salt Lake
The tire fits one of the gigantic land-moving trucks at the mine
Day 3 - Sunday, August12.
Today we left Salt Lake City to head north to Idaho. However, before we left we had a wonderful treat. We had the opportunity to attend the live national broadcast of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir from their headquarters on Temple Square. We arrived at 9 a.m. for their dress rehearsal, and then witnessed the live broadcast on CBS of the entire concert. What a moving experience! In attendance, and I got to say hi to him (and a picture), was Utah senior Senator Oren Hatch. We were in good company! The place was packed and it was icing on the cake for our Salt Lake City experience. We boarded the bus after the concert for our trip north to Idaho, going through what is known as the Cache Valley, with the great Salt Lake Desert on our left (western side) and the beautiful Wasatch Mountain Range on our right or to the east. We went through Ogden Utah, stopped for Lunch in Logan ( Utah State University) and at 1:30 crossed into Idaho at Franklin, the oldest city in Idaho, founded in 1860. On to Pocatello, Idaho for a pit stop, then through Blackfoot, arriving in Idaho Falls at 4:00 p.m. Our hotel is located on the Snake River -- a beautiful location. We are 5 minutes away from the Falls by foot. We ate at a great restaurant, and here I am back at the hotel. I may go down to see the falls again before retiring. Tomorrow we head to Craters of the Moon National Park and then Bear World in Rexburg, Idaho.
Day 4 - Monday, August 13.
It is now 5:30 p.m. We had a full day. We left the hotel at 7:30 this morning and arrived at Craters of the Moon National Monument at 9:00 a.m. We went through what I consider the most desolate area of America -- nothing but brown stubs of grass or dusty fields until we arrived at the remains of volcanic eruptions of over 2,000 years ago - called, the Craters of the Moon. The government used this place to train the Astronauts to walk on the moon. On the way there we passed once top secret nuclear experimental stations and the town of Arco, a nuclear submarine training station and the first city in America to be powered totally by nuclear energy. The terrain on the way there reminded me of some sections of the plains of Africa which I visited last April. It was really an educational trip and when we got here we saw some mighty interesting terrain as we climbed mounds of volcanic ash and lava. It really did feel as though we were on another planet -- and it was the same no matter how far you could see north, east, south or west. Truly a part of America I never imagined existed. We headed back to Iowa Falls for lunch and then on up to Bear World, a preserve of over 50 black and grizzly bears in Rexburg, Idaho. We took special vehicles into the preserve from which we fed the bears who stood up to take our food and who were probably the biggest bears I've ever seen up close. Created more for tourists, it was still a great experience, and part of the experience was an educational overview of the types and habits of bears in America.
 
Craters of the Moon and the Antler Arch in Jackson Hole
After dinner tonight we plan to go to bed early, as tomorrow we will be away from our hotel from morning until midnight. We'll be visiting the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone and have a special Chuck Wagon dinner in Yellowstone.
The weather is still cooperating -- moderately hot, no humidity, and nice and breezy.
Day 5 – Tuesday, August 14
Today I crossed the border into Wyoming -- my first time in this state, bringing to #38 the number of USA states I've visited so far in my lifetime. It was a long day, starting out from Idaho Falls at 9 a.m., crossing into Wyoming at 10:30 a.m. and then arriving in Jackson Hole at 11:00. We spent a few hours at Jackson Hole, a place where movies like "Shane" and "Spencer's Mountain" were filmed and one of the crossroads of the old west. Harrison Ford spends a lot of time here, but we didn't get to see him. The town is very interesting - a bit touristy -- but very historic. I spent most of my time in the Jackson Hole Museum learning about the pioneering early inhabitants of this territory, while most of the other people were shopping! After our visit here, we then entered Grand Teton National Park -- an absolutely fantastic experience. The Teton Mountains dominate the landscape and we visited various observation points along the way, viewing vistas that you usually see on beautiful outdoor calendars. There is still some snow on the peaks of some of the mountains. A visit to Lake Jenny was another breathtaking experience. All in all, the day was very rewarding and exceeded our expectations. We were hoping to see some Buffalo and Antelope, but they eluded us. We expect to see some tomorrow in Yellowstone Park. Our evening ended with a visit to the Bar J Chuck Wagon - a true Western Cowboy experience. We still don't know how they were able to serve 750 of us within 25 minutes - a very substantial Western meal that we all said was very good despite the "mass production". The show which followed -- a quintet of singers and strummers much like the "Sons of the Pioneers" -- with lots of humor thrown in for good measure -- was very professional and entertaining. I said it was a long day, as we didn't get back to our hotel in Idaho Falls until just before midnight. Again, the weather today was ideal.
The Chapel at the foot of the Grand Tetons
Tomorrow, it is back to Wyoming where we spend a full day at Yellowstone National Park. Hard to believe our tour is drawing to an end. Everyone in our group is really enjoying it.
Day 6 – Wednesday, August 15
Today was another day of "firsts" for me. Add another state to my list: Montana -- the 39th state I've visited in my lifetime. We crossed into Montana from Idaho at 10:06 this morning. Then it was on into Yellowstone Park at 10:15 -- another first for me. What an eye opener! Reading about Yellowstone in National Geographic or a travel guide is nice; seeing it on the Discovery Channel is exciting; but seeing it up close, real and in person: PRICELESS! There were so many awesome moments today: Seeing "Old Faithful" erupt at exactly 2:02 p.m. as predicted; crossing the Continental Divide at 2:50 p.m.; seeing herds of Buffalo and several Elk and Eagles; and visiting the awesome Canyon Village -- Yellowstone's version of the Grand Canyon; and so much more. Learning the geology of Yellowstone from our tour guide made it all come together for us. We saw magnificent waterfalls, beautiful vistas, and unusual lakes. Being in America's first national park was a dream come true and a memory I will savor for years to come.
 
Two shots at Canyon Village in Yellowstone Park
I had a personal experience this evening that is worth sharing. We had completed our tour of Yellowstone and stopped at the town of West Yellowstone, Montana, just outside the west gate of the park. It was 6 p.m. -- we had an hour there to find a place to eat. We were to be back on the bus by 7. As we had stopped here in the morning on the way in, I had seen something I wanted to buy Penny in the gift shop of the Visitor Center. I decided to leave the group to walk about five blocks to the Museum, buy the item, and then return to the town center for a quick sandwich. It took about half an hour to get there, make my purchase and head back. I found a nice little bar and restaurant, sat down, ordered a Coors Light and my sandwich. The Coors Light came, and my cell phone rang. It was Penny from home. "Did you find your wallet yet" she asked. "What? I didn't lose my wallet!" was my reply. Then I checked. No wallet! - It had fallen out of my pocket in a parking lot I crossed through on my way to the restaurant. Penny informed me that Triple A had called, and relayed a message from a woman who found my wallet. Penny said the woman would meet me to return it. She gave me her cell # -- I called the number - she answered. She was standing in front of the gift shop where I had made my purchase. She found the wallet across the street in the parking lot I passed through -- probably within minutes of my dropping it. She said Triple A gave her a hard time because my membership had expired on August 1! It was my old card. My new one was at home in Vincentown. The woman wore them down and they agreed to call my home. I had only taken one sip from my beer and my food hadn't come yet. I told the bartender my predicament - he said no problem, and I trekked back five blocks to the Visitor Center. The young woman, Nicole Larsen, her husband and father were there. She gave me my wallet - said it must have been "karma" -- as they were in transit as I was. I expressed my gratitude -- headed back -- but not for my dinner (it was now close to 7 and I had to get back on the bus).
How's that for an experience? And for honesty and good will! If it were 30 minutes later when I got Penny's call, I'd have been headed back to Idaho Falls without a wallet. There are many other "what ifs" to this story -- but I am grateful that the "karma" was working for me! And that's my story!
Our trip is coming to a quick end. Tomorrow we visit the Idaho Museum, the Idaho Potato Exhibition and Fort Hill, to learn about the Oregon Trail. Then it is home on Friday.
I recommend a visit to Yellowstone for everyone who wants to experience the beauty of America and the story of our western heritage. Everyone here seems to be enjoying everything about the trip -- and the weather has certainly been cooperating.
Day 7 - Thursday, August 16
Today we wound down our tour with visits to three special places. We started out in Idaho Falls with a visit to the Museum of Idaho. We were treated to a national exhibit called "Ink & Blood" -- and while it may not seem like something to come out West for -- it is something we wouldn't have been able to experience had we not been here. We got to see actual fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls, original copies of the Gutenberg Bible and other ancient and historic bibles, and a replica of the Gutenberg Printing Press. The Director of the Museum gave us a personal tour. We also learned all about Idaho on this visit. After lunch we journeyed to Blackfoot, Idaho to the Idaho Potato Museum and Exhibit. It might sound corny, but it was very interesting and enlightening. I now have a greater respect for every potato, French fry or potato chip I eat! And finally, we traveled to Pocatello, Idaho for a visit to Old Fort Hall, gateway to the Pacific Northwest, where we learned all about the Oregon Trail and how the Pioneers survived. We ended up with a Dutch Oven dinner in a barn outside of Pocatello. This was our farewell dinner, with words and awards from our tour manager, Randy, and a few words from me. The Dutch Oven dinner was another fascinating western-style experience for all of us!
 
In Blackfoot at the Potato Museum and Fort Hall, Pocatello
We learned that up to that point we had traveled 1,201 miles – and that when we finally arrived at the Salt Lake City Airport on Friday, it would come to a total of about 1,400 miles.
As we end this tour I have a "top ten" list and a personal story to share.
For the top ten, I thought I'd list everything I learned about that either corrected or improved what I thought I knew, or that completely added to my knowledge:
1. The Mormons, Brigham Young and the whole story of the creation of Salt Lake City.
2. The fate of the Indian tribes of the Northwest, particularly the Shoshone and Bannock Indians, and the influence of Sacajawea on the history of Idaho and the USA. I now know and appreciate why she is on the dollar coin.
3. The whole Western Expansion, via the Oregon Trail, including wagon trains, the pioneers and the cross-continental Railroad - and Lewis and Clark.
4. Mountain Men and Trappers
5. The geological and volcanic aspects of Yellowstone National Park
6. The Teton Mountain Range!
7. North American Wildlife: The Buffalo, Moose, Elk and Bear in particular.
8. The geography and relationship between Utah, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana -- and the Snake River - and their role in USA history.
9. The Copper Mining Industry in this part of the world!
10. The Potato Industry.
Postcript – Saturday, August 18 – from home
I am comfortably settled back at home in Vincentown on a beautiful fall-like day. Our journey home was a little less than perfect. We left Idaho Falls at 8:00 a.m. for the trip south to Salt Lake City and the airport there. We arrived at the airport at 10:30 a.m. for a 1:45 flight to Atlanta. The trip went well – until we arrived in Atlanta at 7:30 p.m. We had a little less than an hour to board our flight to Philly, which was scheduled to leave at 8:15 p.m.
Despite the fact that I stood at the end of the exit ramp and informed all of my group to go to gate T-8, half of them apparently didn’t listen. They had another gate on their boarding pass, but I advised them of the change. Half of us arrived at gate T-8 with minor difficulty (it was a long trek, navigating down and up escalators and a train between terminals) but, if you followed the signs, you would easily arrive at your destination. Half of the group did not do that. After roaming the airport and fearing they missed the flight, they finally arrived at T-8 – all 14 of us. However, there were mechanical difficulties with the plane we were scheduled to fly on, so they changed our plane, our gate and our departure time, from 8:45 to 10:45, getting us into Philly at about 1:30 and then, by van, to Vincentown by 2:30. Truly, a long day!
And so ends our tour of the great Northwest, which encompassed sections of the four states of Utah, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana. I chalk it up as a great tour – one I will long remember for its beauty, history and animals – and the camaraderie of a great group of people.
Joe Laufer, August 18, 2007
 
"This is the place" monument and Buffalo art from the 2002 Olympics at the Utah State Capital
 
Overlooking Jackson Hole; Elk Sculpture in front of our Idaho Falls Motel, Le Ritz.
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